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It is not often a rite of passage to discover the concealed treasures in a sale, but in this article we hand-decide the best of the rest which isn’t usually detectable at first look.A wine we tried out, Weingut Pircher Räuschling 2022, had a nose paying homage to pencil shavings, which, unusually, was mirrored to the palate — so flinty! It ha